‘The Rajah, pointing to the images and pictures of the deities that adorned his room, asked if we used such things, and being answered in the negative, said it did not signify, since it was the same Being we all adored.’
- Extract from the diary of Samuel Davis, on his visit to Thimpu in 1783. Impressions of Europeans travelling to Bhutan before World War I range from positive (as Davis’s was) to extremely negative (such as Ashley Eden, whose account has him grossly mistreated by the locals).
‘The situation of Tacissudon [the Royal Palace near Thimpu], elevated into so pure a region of air, must certainly be healthy in any season of the year; even in the rains, as there is no place where water can lodge and become stagnate, neither is the surface so closely covered with wood as to produce unwholesome vapour.’
- Extract from the diary of Samuel Davis, on his visit to Thimpu in 1783.
‘Some distance further on we came to a romantic patch of sward in a gorge of the ravine where the stream was joined by another mountain torrent, and on the tongue of land thus formed, covered with beautiful cedar pines, was a fine choten, built in imitation of the Swayambunath in Nepal. For miles we continued to traverse undulating ground … through oak, magnolia, and rhododendrons, until we emerged on more open country.’
- J. Claude White (1909), Sikhim and Bhutan, from his visit in 1905 to bestow an honour on Ugyen Wangchuk, the penlop (baron) of Paro, and future first King of modern Bhutan. From his description, it is likely this is the chorten he mentioned. The shape, akin to the Swayambunath, and the location, at the tongue of two torrents, is a giveaway.
‘Early one morning the sound of a very sweet-toned gong warned us that the spring ceremony of blessing the rice-fields was about to begin … the men sprang up, throwing off their outer garments; this was the signal for the women to rush into the inundated field and to commence throwing clods of earth and splashes of muddy water on the men below as they tried to climb up. Then followed a wild and mad, although always good-humoured, struggle between the men and the women in the water … gradually the women drove the men slowly down the whole length of the field … this was looked on as a very propitious ending, as the women’s victory portends during the coming season fertility of the soil’.
- J. Claude White (1909), Sikhim and Bhutan, from his visit in 1905.
‘Unable to move the cart despite all efforts, Wencheng spread out the geomantic and divination chart she carried with her from China … analysis revealed that the country of Tibet lay on a supine demoness … causing it to breed savagery and diabolic forces [which] had to be tamed through building a series of temples.’
- Karma Phuntsho (2013), The History of Bhutan.
Two of Princess Wencheng’s temples were built in present-day Bhutan in the 7th century AD, serving as the first historical mention of Buddhism being spread to Bhutan.
‘As the culmination of this religious meditative practice, Padmasambhava is said to have manifested in the appearance of Dorji Drolod [the Adamantine Exuberant Wrath] while Tashi Kheudren … transformed herself into a tigress. In these terrifying forms … the duo is believed to have scared the evil forces of the entire Himalayan region into submission. Also partaking in this ceremony of Vajrakilaya were other disciples including a young Bhutanese named Saley, Yeshe Tsogyal (Tibet’s greatest female Buddhist figure) and her spiritual partners Atsara Saley and Pelgyi Senge.’
- Karma Phuntsho (2013) The History of Bhutan.
This hut served as Yeshe Tsogyal’s retreat around the time rituals were performed at the nearby Taktsang.
‘The whole face of the country would be found at this time to wear the most curious and interesting aspect, and to afford scenes for a painter in a style truly sublime, but of which words could convey but a very inadequate idea.’
- Extract from the diary of Samuel Davis, on his visit to Bhutan in 1783.
‘The venerated Goraknath is said to have visited the spot, ejected the tigers, and resided here: the marks of his hands and feet are pointed out on the rocks. Cheeboo Lama and nearly all of the Sikhimese were highly delighted … and some of our Sirdars [senior sherpas, probably] spent all their money in the purchase of butter to burn in votive lamps. Those with barren wives who desired heirs anticipated the most beneficial results from their pilgrimage to the shrine.’
- Kishen Kant Bose (1865) Political Missions to Bootan
‘The valleys are wide filled with flowers and fruits.
The villages are enchanting filled with many lotuses
In all directions, the land shines with splendour and excellent beauty,
As if in a contest with the heavenly realm of gods.’
- Extract from the Tibetan saint Longchenpa, from his travels in Bhutan around 1350. Translated in Karma Phuntsho (2013), The History of Bhutan.
